The economy, durability, serviceability, comfort, aesthetic value, texture, design and color of the textile depends on the kind of fiber being used, the way it is spun into  yarn and finally weaved or knitted into a color fabric to suit industrial or commercial purpose.

Yarns to Fabrics - Weaving:

To convert yarns to fabrics, the yarns are woven by interlacing of threads or yarns into a bound system. Woven fabrics are usually composed of lengthwise threads called warp, and shorter widthwise threads called weft. The two are interwoven on device knows as a loom. The loom may be have been used as early as the 5th Century BC.

Types of Weaving

In any type of weaving, four basic operations are carried out. They are:

Shedding:
Specific warp yarns are raised by means of the harness or heddle frame.

Picking:
Yarns are filled through the shed by inserting.

Beating Up:
Pushing filling yarns firmly in place by means of the reed.

Taking and Letting off:
Winding the finished fabric on the cloth beam and releasing more of the warp from the warp beam.

Basic Weaves

The three basic weaves are plain, twill and satin.

Plain:
Plain weave or tabby is the most common type and produces a uniform pattern of warp and weft. This weave is used mainly for cotton fabrics and for fabrics to be printed with designs.

Twill:
Twill produces a weave in which the weft crosses over two warp yarns or a non-uniform sequence, producing a longer weft weave and diagonal line pattern.

Satin:
The weft is longer and the fabric produced is smooth-faced, without a strong diagonal line.

Another method of weave is Gauze weave. The gauze weave produces a fabric very light in weight and with an open-mesh effect. With this weave, curtain materials, and some shirting and dress goods are woven. This weave produces sheer materials.

Yarns to Fabrics - Knitting

"The process of forming open work fabric by tying yarns when they cross one another, interlocking a series of loops is called Knitting"

Knitted Fabrics:
These are made by interlocking of series of loops made from one or more yarns, with each row of loops caught into the preceding row. Hand Knitting probably originated from among the nomads of the Arabian Desert in about 1000 BC and spread from Egypt to Spain, France and Italy. By the later Middle ages, knitting guilds were established in Paris and Florence. Heavily cabled and knotted fabrics, embroidered with brightly colored patterns were produced by Austria and Germany. Several Dutch knitters went to Denmark to teach Danish women the Dutch skills. Later in 1589, with invention of the Knitting Machine, the craft of hand knitting became less important. Of course, the production of yarns for hand knitting has remained an important branch of the Textile industry till the present day.

Yarns to Fabrics - Lace Making

Making fabrics by this method is very ancient. This technique involves looping, knotting, braiding, twisting, or stitching thread into decorative open-work patterns.

Handmade laces are very widely used as trimming for apparel like jackets, skirts, skirt tops and decorative pieces at home like table mats, tea coasters.

Yarns to Fabrics - Net Making

 TOP

Fabric by net-making is made by open-mesh form of construction which holds the fabric together by knots or fused thermoplastic yarns at each point where the yarns cross one another.

Yarns to Fabrics - Braiding

 TOP

Braiding is a simple form of narrow fabrics construction. Strands are plaited together by crisscrossing them diagonally and lengthwise, just as Indian women are used to braiding their hair. Braid for making fabrics is formed on a braiding machine by interlacing three or more strands of yarn so that each strand passes over and under one or more of the others.

Yarns to Fabrics - Felting

In non-Woven fabric done by a process called felting, fibers are interlocked or matted in a random fashion by applying heat, moisture or mechanical action. They can be bonded by an adhesive also. Felt is useful for making slippers, shoe insoles, earmuffs, and table padding.

Finishing a Fabric

Once it is ready, the fabric is subjected to chemical and mechanical processes. This process is called finishing. The object of the various finishing processes is to make the fabric from the loom or knitting frame more acceptable to the customer. Finishing processes include bleaching, removal of moisture, napping, shearing, pressing, brushing, polishing and to improving its appearance and thus enhance its tactile qualities.

Other treatments include controlling shrinkage, adding permanent pleating, shedding of wrinkles after washing, creating resistance to soiling and static electricity. Some fabrics are treated to repel water, moths or other harmful agents.

Decating

Decating is a process applied to a woolen and worsteds, man-made and blended fiber fabrics, and various types of knits. It involves the application of heat and pressure to set or to develop luster and softer hand and to even the set and grain of certain fabrics. When applied to double knits it imparts crisp hand and reduces shrinkage. In wet decating, which gives a subtle luster, or bloom, fabric under tension is steamed by passing it over perforated cylinders.

Tentering, Crabbing and heat setting

These are the final processes applied to set the warp and weft of woven fabrics at right angles to each other and to stretch and set the fabric to its final dimensions. Tentering stretches width under tension by the use of a tenter frame, consisting of chains fitted with pins or clips to hold the selvages of the fabric, and traveling on tracks. As the fabric passes through the heated chamber, creases and wrinkles are removed, the weave is straightened, and the fabric is dried to its final size. when the process is applied to wet tools it is called crabbing; when applied to synthetic fibers it is sometimes called heat- setting, a term also applied to the permanent setting of pleats, creases and special surface effects.

Softening

Making fabrics softer and sometimes also increasing absorbency involves the addition of such agents as dextrin, glycerin, sulfonated oils and sulfated alcohols and sulfated tallow.

Merely making a proper selection of fabric or textile product is just not enough, but proper care is essential to ensure its durability and satisfaction. Adequate care should be taken in the following forms.

1. Brushing and Airing should be done
2. Clean Storage when not in use
3. "Stitch in time saves nine" that means immediate mending when damaged
4. Frequent and right method of laundering depending on the type of fabric.
5. Before washing, ensure that the stains are removed Stain removers
6. Ironing is necessary too.

Brushing and Airing:

If a popular fabric does not require frequent dry cleaning or washing, it could be kept bright and attractive by regularly brushing it. Thus the new look could be retained. Brushes with soft and firm bristles should be used. Once brushed, they should be aired properly, in the open or at least hang them outside in a well-aired room.

Clean storage:

Clothes should be stored in dust proof cupboards or containers. Moth Preventives should be put. Ensure that clothes are stored only after proper brushing or airing as accumulated dust spoils the garments in due course of time.

Stain Remover:

 TOP

Different Fabrics and different stains require different stain removers. It is necessary that stains be removed before they get set on the fabric. Never hurry to use stain removers as incorrect remover may cause irreparable damage to the fabric.

To remove stains caused by acid or alkali solutions use Limejuice, Vinegar or a dilute solution of acetic acid after rinsing the garment thoroughly.

Fabrics of fibers like Polyester, Acrylic etc., which are not very absorbent do not easily stain and so stains on such clothes could be removed by washing it with a mild soap solution or by wiping the stain with a damp cloth.

Bleaching Agents:

Only cottons, Linens and rayons should household bleaches be used and never or silk or wool. Sodium-perborate is very effective and harmless for white woolens. For stains caused by iron or metal rust, ink, iodine, fruit juice, use one teaspoon of sodium hydro sulphate in a glass of water as a bleaching agent.

A mild bleach like Hydrogen Peroxide could be used on all kinds of Fabrics. Turpentine or alcohol could be used to remove greasy stains, which are very effective and do not discoloration of fabric.

Sprinkle talcum powder or powdered chalk over fresh grease spot or oil stains and leave it for a while. The sprinkled powder absorbs the grease. Now brush of the powder to remove the stain.

Consumer Care Guide for Apparel: Tips For Apparel Care When the label reads

Ø      Machine
It means washable on machine. Wash, bleach, dry, and press by any customary method including commercial laundering and dry cleaning;

Ø      Home Launder Only
Same as above but do not use commercial laundering;

Ø      No Chlorine Bleach

Do not use chlorine bleach. Oxygen bleach may be used;

Ø      Cold Rinse
Use cold water form tap or cold washing machine setting;

Ø      Warm Rinse
Use warm water or warm washing machine setting;

Ø      Hot Wash
Use hot water or hot washing machine setting;

Ø      No Spin
Remove wash load before final machine spin cycle;

Ø      Delicate Cycle Or Gentle Cycle
Use appropriate machine setting otherwise, wash by hand;

Ø      Durable Press Cycle Or Permanent Press Cycle
Use appropriate machine setting; otherwise, use warm wash, cold rinse, and short spin cycle;

Ø      Wash Separately
Wash alone or with like colors;

Ø      Non-Machine Washable - Hand Wash
Launder only by hand in lukewarm (hand comfortable) water. May be bleached. May be dry-cleaned;

Ø      Hand Wash Only
Same as above, but do not dry-clean;

Ø      Hand Wash Separately
Hand wash alone or with like colors;

Ø      No Bleach
Do not use bleach;

Ø      Damp Wipe
Surface clean with damp cloth or sponge;

Ø      Home Drying Tumble Dry
Dry in tumble dryer at specified setting--high, medium, low, or no heat;

Ø      Warm Iron
Set iron medium setting;

Ø      Hot iron
Set iron at hot setting;

Ø      Do Not Iron
Do not iron or press with heat;

Ø      Steam Iron
Iron or press with steam;

Ø      Iron Damp
Dampen garment before ironing.